The next rooms back are the forward berths in each hull and across the bridgedeck. Each bedroom will have a slightly different set up in that the port berth will run across the boat (athwartships) and the starboard berth will run fore and aft. This will mean the step set up will be different and consequently the cupboards around them. But the outside hull side cupboards will be the same.
Bothe rooms have the doors in the same place but mirror image and both will have the mast posts in the same place. The furniture down the outside wall then will also be identical. The great thing about this is that when I figure out one I have also figured the other and just have to cut the same parts in mirror image which should speed things along a little.
The first issue is the forward doorway is now moved off the centerline of the hull and the cupboard must accommodate that and act as a path from one door to the other. I have worked out that the kickboard still fits perfectly when maintaining a line parallel to the centerline. It starts at exactly the point or distance from the centre I want so that the doors overhang the kicker when fitted plumb and the top overhangs the doors by the correct amount and is set back from the door edge the appropriate distance and then when run in a straight line down the hull maintaining parallel to center it ends up the exact distance from the edge of the doorway (the door that is moved outboard). Of course it tapers as the hulls taper but the leading edge is straight and the taper is against the hull side. So that pretty much set itself.
I ran a string line at the top height from bulkhead to bulkhead at the inside edge of the doorways. This gave me an outline of the top shape but as the forward door is no longer on the centerline this string line did not mirror the kickboard below, that is, it did not run parallel to centerline. It also resulted in a top and cupboard shape that resulted in very shallow shelves from the center forward. I could not run the top parallel to centerline or else it would jut into the doorway, so then I experimented with the string line to set a new top shape that both allowed me to follow the kickboard and to meet the forward door and act as a correct walkway to it. I settled on the shape in the string line by measuring 3 doors on the cupboard of 500mm wide each and maintained parallel to that point then ran the string line into the doorway from there.
This still leaves me with a problem of the front face of the cupboard and the angles and problems of narrowing hulls etc that this creates, so I will solve this by not having a front on the cupboard at that forward angled section. It will be open shelves, the shape of which I have not yet settled on. The kicker is pre set as I can maintain the plumb line but the hull narrowing means that directly above the kicker front edge is into the door opening so the top cannot mirror the kicker from the point it turns in and neither can the shelves, how ever many I decide to fit. They must be either angled in to the correct width or curved in. I will work on that later by experimenting with shelf shapes. Being open greatly simplifies it though and offers a number of possibilities.
So the cupboard ends about 450mm from the doorway. I then also decided that instead of posts to hang the 3 doors on I would separate each cupboard behind each door with a wall, the reasoning that if during a rough passage the contents inside move there are 3 small spaces in which for them to move instead of 1 large space. It also allows me to have different numbers of shelves in each space. I will probably have a single shelf in 2 of them but 2 shelves in the middle one. And having solid walls also gives the structure more strength and rigidity. A front rail will still join the tops and lay a platform for the top.
The great thing about mirror image cupboards is that you can cut both sides at the same time saving a lot of time. I had already cut both kickboards and glued and glassed the kicker to the cupboard bottom shelf (and pre decored the front edge and back filled them yesterday). So using the string line I was able to measure the wall size and shape (measure from the string line to the hull and the front kicker edge to the hull remembering there is a chine in the there also). Of course I started with a cardboard cut out based on my measurements and once convinced that it fit I transcribed those measurements onto a polycore panel and I cut out the 6 cupboard walls.
To finish off today I decored the side walls and a front rail and back filled them. I have a slightly different de core method for the polycore. I still run the router cut against the inside glass edges as I do with balsa (the front rail is balsa) but to remove the poly honeycomb core I find it easier to use the die grinder with a conical bit in it. It is even faster than decoring balsa, but just as messy! I filled them and knocked off early.
Yesterday it was hot. Today it was damn hot. It was 34 yesterday, 41 today. The hottest November day in Sydney since they started taking records 75 years ago. Nah, no global warming going on here chaps, just keep arguing against doing anything to combat it, cos I am not convinced!
