I had a bit of trouble fairing the trailing edge of the first dagger (and I still have a little filling and sanding to do) because I had not glued the fibreglass batten in perfectly straight. Then when I glassed it the glass just followed the curves of the batten with each layer adding thickness but following the flow so I had highs and lows to sand out with fill in troughs and sanding glass down on the highs. I have managed to get it fair and is now straight and had square edges but it was more work than it needed to be, so I have a solution for the second board. I hot glued the trailing edge batten to a flat edge that took the curves out before I glass. Once the glass goes on and sets whilst the batten is straight will mean the batten stays straight and I will then glass the other side straight also. That will mean I have less fairing of the trailing edge later.
So I glassed the first layer of uni (threads running down the board) onto the dagger whilst it was on the bench, I will do the other side tomorrow on the screw axle between the drums like I did with the first board then continue to glass the next layer of uni (also threads running down the board) in one piece like I did first time around. I doubt I will get the time to do the third layer (uni across the board) tomorrow. I also cant glass the double bias until the uni layers are set and the edges sanded clean. After the warm front over the weekend that prompted Jo and I to go for evening beach walks, there has been a cold (winter freezing cold) snap so the resin will go off slowly so tomorrow I will be able to glass again without having to sand this layer as the resin will definitely still be green.
Once I had finished glassing the dagger I gave the inside of the first case half another coat of resin. The plans call for 4 coats wet on wet and again I will be able to give the next coat tomorrow and still be hitting green resin. I am only going to give it 2 more coats, one normal resin coat tomorrow then I will let it go hard give the top 300mm and the bottom 800mm a sand back and then give the top part a couple of coats white of 2 pack epoxy paint and the bottom section 2 coats of copper epoxy which will provide anti foul as well as seal coating. It will be too hard to reach up into the case to do this effectively once it is glued and it is under the waterline so it makes sense to do it before I join them.