We spent another 6 hours working on the dinghies today (so in all we are up to 12 hours each). We have managed to cut the 2 rear transom bulkheads (one for each boat) out of 25mm duflex. We have the inside hull panels for the second boat cut and also the temp and small bulkheads We also have the bridgedeck for one of the boats cut, and we have glued the 2 hulls together with the rear bulkhead on one of the boats. We have not cut the side panels or top panels for either boat yet. So that just leaves the bridgedeck for 1 boat and the outside and top hull panels for both boats and the forward bulkheads on both boats.

We are planning to finish the first boat before assembling the second boat but we are cutting the panels so that we are ready to go. The reason for this is that if there are any mistakes or adjustments to be made we can make them to the second boat rather than making the same mistakes on both boats. We are also keeping the panel templates so that if we want to make another it will be a simple task.

So on the first boat we joined the inside hull panel to the keel and bulkheads on the port hull including the scoring curved bow. Once it had set a little we then had the 2 hulls to the same stage, we clamped them together to mark the rear bulkhead transom slot. It is canted backwards. We have to be sure that both slots are in exactly the same position (angle of cant and position) on each hull. With the slots cut we glued the bulkhead in and plumbed the hulls, ensuring they were square to the bulkhead, level and running parallel to each other. We then braced the hulls to ensure it sets in the right position.

dingy 2 hullstransom bh slottransom beam slot

With the hulls joined we cut the bridgedeck for the first boat. We have yet to decide if it will be easier to attach the bridgedeck before or after the forward bulkhead. We will cut that on Saturday out of 19mm duflex offcuts. We have used 16mm duflex on the hull panels and 25mm duflex on the rear transom bulkhead. The bridgedeck will be scored and shaped upward about 3/4 of the way and then a similarly shaped panel will start at the forward bulkhead to the front of the deck and curved down to meet the lower bridgedeck. The nose cone space that this encloses will become the anchor well with a hatch cover and be self draining. We wont attach the side hull panels until after the bridgedeck is in as it is easier to get to the inside of each hull to run the holding screws into the deck (and remove them again).

rear bulkhead indingy hulls joineddingy plans

After the sides of the hulls are in place we will start to glass the joins inside and outside the hulls. We will cove the joins inside before taping and on the outside we will have to take the sharp edges off the hulls with a router to glass effectively but we actually want a sharp keel line on the hulls so we may rebuild that sharp edge with bog over the top of the glass.

Then finally once this is done we can make the hull tops and glue them down before glassing them on. Then we will start on the fairing. Yes the fairing. Oh how we love it. We may add a small chine (about 100mm) to the top outside hull side to top join to give the hulls a more rounded look but it is extra work and purely aesthetic so we have yet to decide that. Then finally we will fit all of the deck hardware we need and any hatches we may want cut into the hulls and hatch covers made and re attached. The last thing we will do is to decide how to actually finish the boat. We will resin coat the first boat and then test it. Then we may paint it. The final picture above is the plans we are working from. Yep that’s it!

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Paul